You have everything ready for your trip to Peru, but somehow you can’t decide how many days you should spend in Lima. You have nothing to worry about. I lived in Lima for over 20 years and know the city by heart. In fact, my sister lives there so I visit every year.
Lima is Peru’s capital and largest city. It’s been inhabited for centuries. The Spanish conquistadores made it the center of the Empire in the 16th Century. The following centuries saw an influx of people from all over the world. From the 60s on, people from all over Peru migrated to the capital.
That’s why Lima is such a diverse place with an incredible mix of cultures. Nothing reflects such mix as Lima’s cuisine. We locals always knew, but the secret is out and Peruvian cuisine is conquering the world. Today, the city is cosmopolitan and vibrant. However, its inhabitants are as welcoming and lovely as ever.
One Day is Not Enough
Most tourists visit Lima on their way to Cusco and the Sacred Valley, and hardly spend any time in the city. What a mistake! The city is a fantastic destination in itself. However, if you find yourself with just one day in Lima, you have to see the UNESCO listed Old Town and Barranco.
To maximize your time, spend the night in Barranco. It’s my favorite neighborhood in Lima. The neighborhood is up on the cliffs that tower above the Pacific Ocean. The views from Barranco’s parks over the ocean are epic. The neighborhood is full of early 20th Century architecture, cool bars, churches, and delicious restaurants.
The Old Town is inland, next to the Rimac River. It’s so grand, that you won’t be able to see it all. Check out the Plaza de Armas, the main square. The Cathedral is there. The two must see churches are Saint Francis from 1672 and the Saint Domingo from 1535.
Two Days are Not that Bad
If you have 2 days in Lima, spend one full day in the Old Town. Other than the above mentioned churches, visit Nazarenas Church from 1771 and La Merced Church. Walk along pedestrian Jiron de la Union to San Martin Square. I usually have lunch at Maury Restaurant. They invented the Pisco Sour cocktail!
Spend half your second day in Barranco. The Puente de los Suspiros is the most iconic bridge in the country. Barranco’s best museum is Pedro de Osma, dedicated to colonial art. Barranco is famous for its restaurants. My favorite is Isolina. To have some drinks and listen to live music I always go to La Noche.
Spend the rest of your day in Miraflores, the commercial center in Lima. Kennedy Park is its epicenter. For unbelievable views over the ocean, go to LarcoMar, perched on the cliff. Walking along the cliffs to the Love Park is a must. I strongly recommend eating at La Huaca Pucllana Restaurant, overlooking the 200 – 700 A.D. archaeological remains.
Three Days are Great
I believe you should spend at least 3 days in Lima, Peru. Follow the two day itinerary but include the Larco Museum in Pueblo Libre. It’s a former colonial hacienda turned into a museum dedicated to precolumbian art. The other museum you should visit is the Gold Museum, in Surco.
It’s collection of gold artifacts and weapons is stunning. The museum is close to the highway that takes you to Pachacamac, some 11 miles (18.6 km) south of Lima. The massive archaeological site has temples dating to pre-Inca times. You need at least a couple of hours to see it. Take comfortable shoes.
Eating is one of my favorite things to do in Lima. You have to try at least traditional Peruvian, Japanese-Peruvian, and Chinese-Peruvian cuisine. I always have seafood in La Rosa Nautica, on a pier over the ocean. Maido in Miraflores has the best Sushi. I’ve been going to Titi for Chinese chifa for ages!
Four Days are Perfect
If you can, spend 4 days in Lima. You won’t have to rush so much following the three day itinerary. I have two suggestions for your final day. I’m an Environmental Lawyer and have spent considerable time exploring Paracas. The National Reserve is some 170 miles (260 km) south of Lima.
It makes sense to go to Pachacamac early in the morning and then continue to Paracas on the same road. It’s a peninsula where you can see flamingos, penguins, and sea lions. Take a boat to the islands in front. The beaches are splendid too. My family and I always stay at the Hotel Paracas.
My other recommendation is Caral, the oldest city in the Americas. The UNESCO Listed Archaeological Remains are 5000 years old! Its pyramids are older than the ones in Egypt! Caral is 112 miles (180 km) north of Lima. If you can, spend a night in Empedrada Ranch & Lodge, the best and closest hotel to ruins.
Where to Stay in Lima
The best places to stay in Lima are in Miraflores. In all honesty, traffic in LIma is so bad that you have to stay there. The JW Marriot Hotel has an unbeatable location, next to LarcoMar. It’s a tall tower with awesome views of the ocean and beyond.
Considering its location and class, the Hotel Monte Real is great value for money. It’s also in Miraflores. I suggest you book the suite with balcony. It’s a contemporary tower on top of a traditional 1940s mansion previously owned by a former President. The service is fantastic. It’s got a restaurant and a library.
If you spend one night, stay in Barranco at Hotel B. It’s an old mansion converted into a fancy hotel in the center of the neighborhood. It’s full of art and designer furniture. The complimentary breakfast is delicious. The rooftop bar is very popular among the locals.
Moving around Lima
The one thing that has gotten worse in Lima over the years is traffic. It’s not easy to move around the city. In Miraflores, Barranco, and the Old Town walk from attraction to attraction. These are close. Miraflores and Barranco are safe during the day and at night. I don’t walk at night in the Old Town.
The vast majority of us Limenos take buses. Though they take long, they are a great way to know the local culture. The Metropolitano Bus connects Barranco, Miraflores and the Old Town super-fast. Even faster than a taxi. Taxis are inexpensive. You can hail them on the street.
However, I recommend installing a taxi app. Uber works in Lima. Biking is a great way to discover the city too. There are bike lanes in major avenues. One of my favorite rides is along the cliffs that tower above the ocean. The city has a bike sharing system that’s easy to operate and reliable.
The Best Tours of Lima
If you are short of time or don’t want to visit the Old Town on your own, I strongly recommend this tour. I took it when friends visited. We went with a small group in a private bus to the center’s highlights. For Miraflores and Barranco, I suggest this one. It also takes you to San Isidro.
To go on a day tour to Paracas, take this one. It takes you to Huacachina, a lagoon in the middle of massive sand dunes. Note that it includes a boat ride to the islands in front of Paracas, where the penguins live. Plus, sand gliding in the dunes!
I am a big fan of archaeological remains, and the ones in Caral are epic. This tour takes you there and back on the same day. You go in a small group all the way to Caral with a private expert guide. It includes meals.
Is Lima Worth Visiting?
To my complete amazement, when traveling out of Peru, people rave about Machu Pichu and Cuzco, and then ask me: is Lima worth visiting? My answer is always a resounding yes. Lima is so cool that there’s no way you won’t love it.
Few other cities in the world have ancient archaeological remains, a UNESCO Listed Old Town, a gorgeous coast line, and such a powerful culture. To me, Lima represents all of the country. To learn about Peru, you must visit the city. If you don’t, you won’t get the whole picture.
Besides, Lima is so much fun. If you are a foodie, you won’t believe how good the food is. Maybe you’ve tried a Peruvian restaurant in your home town. Wait till you have the real thing. If you are a party animal, you will have a ball in Lima. Peruvians love to dance!
Lima vs Santiago
I believe there’s a clear winner in any Lima vs Santiago analysis. That is Lima, though Santiago is for sure worth visiting too. The Chilean capital is a modern metropolis with an illustrious past. In addition, beautiful mountains surround it. It also totally different to Lima and a bit more boring.
However, you will never be at a loss for things to do in Lima. My suggestions above are just a fraction of what this magical city offers. Plus there’s the vibe. Lima is electrifying! When it comes to music and cultural activities, I’m convinced Lima offers more than Santiago.
Peru is a much bigger and diverse country than Chile. It’s got a long coast, super tall mountains, thousands of valleys and the mighty Amazon. Besides, several empires conquered the area. Pre-Inca, the Inca’s, and the Spanish have all left their mark in the country.
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