Mardin in the Southeast Turkey blew our minds. We had seen a couple of pictures, but we really didn’t expect such beauty and authenticity. Besides, Mardin has little mass tourism. We were lucky enough to be some of the few tourists in the city. However, it won’t remain under the radar for much longer, so you better visit soon.
Though not that big, there are lots of things to do in Mardin. The place has incredible architecture and lovely nature. That’s probably the city’s biggest draw. Walking about its streets and isles will take you back in time. It’s a millenary place that’s still in use today. Thus, the atmosphere is genuine and lively.
Is Mardin Safe to Visit?
You are probably wondering: is Mardin safe to visit? We always do some research before traveling anywhere. Especially to Mardin, that’s so close to the border with Syria. We asked a couple of Turkish friends who told us that the area was safe to visit. The conflict in Syria is almost finished, and there haven’t been any problems in the city for quite some time now.
After visiting Mardin, we are happy to report that it is pretty safe. We didn’t feel scared at all. No troops or police were lingering around the area. Everyone welcomed us with a smile and treated us nicely. In fact, as an LGBT couple, we had no problem asking and getting a king bed in our two hotels. Of course, like in any other city, be cautious and avoid dark places.
Where to Stay in Mardin
Mardin has a decent range of accommodation options. The city has two distinct sections. New Mardin is full of big towers and new hotels. On the other hand, the Old Town has smaller but equally good hotels. Since we wanted to experience both places, we booked two hotels. Both areas are close, so you can take a minibus or an inexpensive taxi to move between them.
The Mardius Tarihi Konak is the best hotel in Mardin, and one of the best in Turkey. The building is from the 15th Century and has everything you ever dreamed of. We are talking about history, class, elegance, comfort, food, service, and views. The Hilton Garden Inn is a contemporary building with modern-day conveniences. Located in front of a cliff, it offers great views. Besides, it’s got an indoor pool, sauna, and gym.
How to Get to Mardin
We went from Diyarbakir to Mardin with a minibus in about an hour and a half. The journey is an attraction in itself, so be sure to grab a window seat. Minibuses leave from the bus station in the new section of Diyarbakir and stop in the new part of Mardin. From Mardin, we took another bus to reach Sanliurfa. The journey takes around three hours.
Mardin has an airport approximately 12 miles (20 km) from the city. There are regular flights to Sabiha Gokcen Airport in Istanbul, Izmir, Antalya, and Ankara. The train from Istanbul to Mardin takes you through Eskisehir, Ankara, Kayseri, Sivas and Diyarbakir. You can take the fast train from Istanbul to Ankara and then the slow one for the rest of the journey. A fast train to Sivas should open soon and shorten the time considerably.
The Best Things to Do in Mardin
Get Lost in the Streets of the Old Town
Mardin is perfect for sightseeing. The city is a maze of lovely little streets, alleys, and courtyards. This is probably the city’s biggest draw: it’s raw and real. Therefore, a walk around the old town will take you back in time. Unlike other historic city’s, Mardin is absolutely authentic. People have been living in Mardin for ages.
There is no fixed itinerary. Just walk wherever you feel like. You’ll stumble upon old houses, traditional shops, children playing, cute cats, and locals going about their everyday life. The city lies on the slope of a hill, so you’ll go up and down. Take it easy and go at your own rhythm soaking up the atmosphere.
Enjoy the Best Views of Mardin
Mardin Castle stands proud above the Old Town. You will see it from the entire city. Due to its appearance, locals call it the Eagle’s Nest. There is a legend that dates the castle to the 4th Century BC. However, it’s more likely that the original structure was built 3000 years ago. The one we can see today is from the 10th to the 13th centuries. In any case, it is stunning.
Unfortunately, today the castle is a military base used by Turkey and NATO. What can we say? Politics and the military ruin everything. On the good side, locals are campaigning to regain the use of their castle. Today, you can only walk around some areas. Go for it, and you will be rewarded with unbelievable views.
Admire Zinciriye Madrasa
The building you can see just below the castle is the Zinciriye Madrasa. You will recognize it from its two beautiful domes. Locals call it Sultan Isa Madrasa. That’s the name of the sultan that commissioned the structure. He was the last sultan to rule over the Artuqid Empire that controlled Syria and Turkey from the 11th to the 13th centuries.
Once there, notice the splendid stone portal. The carvings are the original ones. From there, all you have to do is go up to enjoy some of the best views in the city. Since it appears in several music videos, the Madrasa is quite popular in Turkey. It is so gorgeous that couples come here to take wedding pictures.
Learn About Local History in Two Museums
Mardin Museum presides over the Old Town’s main plaza. The museum is inside a splendid 1895 church built by the Patriarch of Antakya. The collection inside the museum includes ancient tools from the Bronze Age and Assyrian, Roman, Byzantine, Artuqid, and Ottoman artifacts. You have to pay a small fee to get in.
The Sakip Sabanci Museum is close to the main street, towards the end of Mardin. The major of Diyarbakir commissioned the building in 1886 for military purposes. Today, it homes a fascinating collection of local objects, including old pictures. There is also an art gallery and a museum shop where you can buy cool presents.
Admire the Grand Mosque
The city’s most iconic building is the Mardin Grand Mosque (Ulu Cami). You will see its stone minaret from all over the Old Town. The original mosque was built in 1176. However, the one we see today is from a major reconstruction of 1888. Rumor has it that it used to be an Assyrian church or that there used to be a church where the mosque is today. The building is entirely made of stone.
The dome is truly impressive. Walk about the courtyard searching for ancient carvings. You will notice how the color of the mosque changes throughout the day. Take note that the mosque is in use today. You will see local people and tourists from all over turkey admiring the temple. Thus, be respectful.
Visit Historic Mosques
Mardin has two other historic mosques you should visit. Sehidiye Mosque is from the 14th Century. You will recognize it from its elegant stone minaret. To access the mosque, you have to go through a tea house. Stop there for a cup of traditional tea and enjoy some of the best views of the Old Town and beyond.
Erkulu Mosque is to the west of Sehidiye. With an area of under 100 square meters, it’s one of the smallest in the Old Town. However, the carvings in the stone portal and minaret are stunning. What makes this mosque special is its single balcony minaret. Besides, the internal courtyard has several ancient trees. Once again, people visit the mosque to pray.
Explore Historic Churches
Mardin’s best attractions include three churches. Mor Behnam is in the center of the Old Town. The original church is from 569 and was extended and repaired through the centuries. The building is made of stone and has 12 massive columns. Notice the incredible wooden doors. The bell tower has exquisite carvings too.
Mardin Protestant Church is 160 years old. The beautiful temple is one of the oldest protestant temples in Asia. It remains active and holds regular services. The Saint Hirmiz Chaldean Chruch is an oasis of peace just off the main street. The temple is from the 4th Century. It’s a big stone building with a lovely courtyard with trees. The interior is as dazzling as the exterior.
Admire Kasimiye Madrasa
Kasimiye Madrasa is not in the center of the Old Town. It’s just over a mile (2 km) down, on the foot of the hill. However, we don’t advise walking there. Too many cars and the steep terrain make it next to impossible. Hire a taxi, and you’ll be there in less than 10 minutes. Trust us: it’s for sure worth your time.
The building is the largest in Mardin and one of its best. As you probably know, madrasas were schools and science centers. Thus, the astronomy and medicine symbols on its walls. Notice the delicately carved massive portal as well as the minaret. Once inside, search for the elephant clock. The views from the Madrassa to the Mesopotamian plains will take your breath away.
Visit the Impressive Deyrulzafaran Monastery
Note that Deyrulzafaran Monastery is also known as Mor Hananyo. Though not within the Old Town, you can’t skip it. It’s some 5 miles (8 km) southeast of the city. You can get there in no time with an inexpensive taxi. The monastery is from 493 AD. It fell into oblivion for a couple of centuries until 1160, when it was expanded and renovated.
From 1166 to 1932 it was the seat of the Syriac Orthodox faith. Take your time and explore all of the courtyards, cellars, niches, and halls. Considering its age, it’s in remarkable shape. In fact, the main chapel has some of the original turquoise paint and has a 300-year-old bible and a 1600-year-old mosaic. It is still in use today, with masses held in ancient Aramaic! The garden has ancient trees and offers epic views.
Go on a Day Trip to Ancient Dara
If you have time, we strongly recommend a visit to Dara. The ancient fortress is approximately 25 miles (40 km) from Mardin. We took an inexpensive taxi and got there in 40 minutes. Dara was founded in 505 AC and played a key role in the wars between Romans and Persians. It is one of the best archeological remains we’ve ever visited.
To top it all, we were almost on our own! Hard to believe that such an incredible ancient site remains under the radar. Most people go from Mardin to Midyat for the day and miss Dara. What a mistake! We recommend you spend at least one night in Midyat. Besides, you can hire a taxi to take you to both Deyrulzafaran Monastery and Dara in just half a day. You won’t regret it!
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