Belgrade Street Art: The Best Graffiti and Murals

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You’ve probably heard about Belgrade but never came around to visit. Let us assure you that there are plenty of reasons to visit the Serbian capital. Belgrade is on the confluence of two great rivers: Danube and Sava. The city’s magnificent ancient fortress presides over both.

Belgrade is a unique mix of crumbling architecture from different historical periods. The city has a plethora of traditional Balkan buildings, art nouveau palaces, brutalist jewels, and socialist superblocks.

However, the one thing that sets Belgrade apart is the plethora of outstanding street art. Belgrade fell in love with street art a long time ago. Today, graffiti and street art of all kinds line the streets of Belgrade. Here are the best!

Belgrade Street Art - The imitation of life

History of Belgrade Street Art

Beginnings of Street Art in Belgrade

When Belgrade was the capital of Yugoslavia, back in the 1980s, it was not an isolated city. On the contrary, tapped into the international art scene, Belgrade was avant-garde, with a vibrant cultural and artistic scene.

Street art first appeared in Berlin and Paris, and soon moved into Belgrade in the 1980s. The first graffiti artists that emerged in Belgrade (Beograd) were the so-called Fantastic Boys or the Rap City Crew. Belgrade’s most famous running street artist, Jens, conquered the streets.

In its early stages, graffiti in Belgrade were colorful slogans and messages on walls. Fortunately, the authorities commissioned several artists to paint large scale murals on empty façades. From that moment on, street art became a fixture in Belgrade.

Belgrade graffiti from the 80s

First Belgrade Mural

The first mural in Belgrade was a small scale painting on the wall of a craftsmen shop in Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra. Lazar Vujaklija painted it in 1970 to popular acclaim. Sadly, it fell into oblivion.

However, the first large scale mural did survive. It’s the legendary Student Looking at the Wall that you can see on Rajiceva Street. Interestingly enough, the mural was a gift to the President of Yugoslavia, Josip Broz Tito.

Art Professor Cedomir Vasic wanted a mural on the wall across the Art Academy’s building. His student, Perica Donkov, won the competition. He used pictures of another student to complete the piece in 10 days.

Belgrade's oldest mural

The Collapse of Yugoslavia and Graffiti Revival

In the 1990s, with the collapse of Yugoslavia and the beginning of the civil war, Belgrade’s art scene collapsed too. In fact, the most famous artist at the time, Jens, left Belgrade to settle down briefly in Paris.

He came back in 1994, and two years later established the Anonymous Graffiti Crew with the artist named Cobes. Both created graffiti with simple letters, colors, and shades. Their messages triumphed over their simple artistic style. Some of the famous ones were: Either Bomb Us, We Shall Repaint, Women Fart Too, and He is Done, meaning Milosevic.

At the end of the century, other groups appeared, including the BGILLEGAL crew and the Anti Fascist Youth. The latter painted socialist and antifascist symbols into their pieces.

Street art

The Beginning of the 21st Century

In 2003, graffiti jams were set as part of the Belgrade Summer Festival – BELEF. Truth be told, the first street art festival was held in the 80s. However, this time people were familiar with street art and wanted more.

The festival’s jams of 2008 and 2009 were especially successful. Renowned world street artists like Blek le Rat, Mark Jenkins, REMED, M-city, and BLU participated.

BLU painted the Giant Man Eating a Tree with its building shaped teeth you can still see today on Pop Lukina Street. It immediately became one of Belgrade’s most beloved icons. You guessed it: we all hurt the environment.

Man eating a tree by BLU

Graffiti and Murals in Belgrade Today

Different types of graffiti and street art conquered Belgrade in the last decade. The new hotspots are three abandoned industrial areas turned into nightlife districts. Savamala, Cetinjska, and Dorcol Platz mostly attract creative people, including graffiti artists.

Several art collectives or groups took over the graffiti scene. The Grupa JNA and the GTR creative groups are particularly active. Both groups produce black and white graffiti of famous Serbians. Though these tend to be realistic, their artistic techniques are simple.

On the other hand, an anonymous group depicts cute animals with a clear message to promote veganism. In recent years, the artist called Pijanista has come into the spotlight of Serbia’s street art scene. He paints large murals with political messages.

Vegan graffiti in Belgrade

Where to Find Street Art in Belgrade

Savamala

Savamala is the first former industrial area converted into a nightlife district. Bars, cafes, and cultural centers occupy crumbling old industrial warehouses east of Branko Bridge. Soon enough, colorful graffiti sprung up all over the area.

The first one you notice looking from the bridge is the so-called Waiting for the Sun mural. Across the street, a giant whale floats above the city: The Imitation of Life.

On the other side of Karadjordjeva Street, towards the Fortress, there is another famous mural: The Santa of Belgrade. Renowned French artist Remed drew Santa to protect Belgrade from further destruction.

Waiting for the Sun - Street art in Savamala

Cetinjska and Skadarlija

The clubbing area of Cetinjska is inside the former Belgrade Brewing Factory. Most of the bars and clubs hired graffiti artists to paint their façades. Thus, each space has a distinct character.

On its west side, Belgrade’s historical taverns line bohemian Skadarlija. One of the city’s first large scale murals decorates the western wall of the factory, the one close to the street’s northern end.

You’ll find more art in a small patio just north of Cetinjska’s main plaza. The local street art star Artez painted a colorful mural named Hiawata’s Girlfriend. Notice the mix of realism and illustration.

Dorcol Platz is an emerging neighborhood that follows the steps of Savamala. Next to its bars and restaurants, large graffiti and murals cover walls. Dorcol Platz is slowly, but surely becoming new graffiti central.

Cvijiceva

Dorcol Platz

Dorcol is a large neighborhood north of the city center. This is the oldest continuously inhabited area of Belgrade. It is best known for its fancy street Strahinjica Bana. Locals call it Silicon Valley.

To see the best pieces go to Lower Dorcol, the area north of Cara Dusana Street and Bulevar Despota Stevana. You’ll find three outstanding works in the small neighborhood next to the Danube River. We are talking about Aim for the Stars, I am Akiko, and Sole Mio.

Our favorite area is called Dorcol Platz. It is an emerging neighborhood that follows the steps of Savamala. Large graffiti and murals cover the walls next to the bars and restaurants. Dorcol Platz is slowly, but surely becoming new graffiti central.

Dorcol Platz

Zemun and New Belgrade

You might think that most of Belgrade’s street art is in the city center. Guess again. In recent years, several schools commissioned street artists to decorate their façades. The biggest mural in the city is the one that covers the wall of primary school Lazar Savatic in Zemun.

In 2015, 12 artists from Serbia, Bulgaria, and Spain painted the so-called Magical Forest, a 5400 sq feet (500 m2) mural. It’s an extraordinary fairy tale made of 12 stories. World-famous tennis player Novak Djokovic is on another wall of the same school.

On the other hand, graffiti covers many of the post-war buildings that populate New Belgrade’s Bezanijska Kosa. Two of the best are large murals on a residential building in block 49. Art duo TKV + Pijanista painted the Charming Woman With Doves, while Endo + Sles did the Geometrical Puzzle With a Hook.

Magical forest - primary school Lazar Savatic in Zemun

Other Areas

Big pieces and murals cover most of Belgrade’s central neighborhoods. We love getting lost in the area around the Botanical Gardens. Our favorite is the small neighborhood called Profesorska Kolonija. It is home to beautiful houses and super cool street art.

Vracar is another neighborhood popular amongst party goers. This is where some of the city’s coolest bars are. Walk around Kalenic Pijaca (Kalenic Market) and you’ll stumble upon several interesting graffiti.

If you are into something more alternative, we highly suggest checking out the place called Ciglana. It’s an old brick factory inhabited by ateliers, a bar, a club, a café and plenty of art. Though somewhat difficult to get to, it’s well worth a visit.

Belgrade Street art in Dorcol

How to Visit Belgrade’s Street Art

Most of Belgrade’s street art hotspots are within walking distance from each other. Thus, we suggest visiting them on foot. You should first head to Savamala, a perfect introduction to what Belgrade is all about. Roam around Karadjordjeva Street and then head to the main square (Trg Republike).

From the main square, go directly to Cetinjska and Skadarlija. Check out the small graffiti and large murals and sit down for a drink. If you are into old bohemian taverns, choose your favorite restaurant in Skadarlija. If you rather spend your time with a younger crowd pick a bar in Cetinjska.

If you have time, we highly suggest taking a bus or a taxi to Bezanijska Kosa neighborhood. It’s at the end of Novi Beograd so it shouldn’t be that much. Belgrade’s most impressive large murals are in Block 49. There are quite a few! To get there like a local, take bus 75, 65 or 74 from downtown Belgrade.

Bezanijska Kosa Street Art

Street Art Tours in Belgrade

This guide takes you to the best street art and graffiti Belgrade has to offer. It’s a lovely walk through most of the city. No worries: if you are hungry or thirsty, you can stop at any of the delicious eateries that dot Belgrade. On the other hand, if you like organized street art tours around Belgrade, you have several options.

A group of local artists called Street Up organizes art tours around different areas of Belgrade. These include fun street art workshops. You’ll get an insight into graffiti art and discover secret jewels. If you don’t have much time, we suggest hiring comprehensive tours around the city that include street art.

The Feel Like a Local tour takes you to places where we locals hang out. In addition to graffiti, you’ll discover hidden bars, cafes, and graffiti. Another option is the Alternative Walking Tour. They take you to unusual museums, shopping areas, and abandoned industrial districts.

Spring

Where to Stay in Belgrade

Belgrade is a large city with a fantastic tourist infrastructure. Naturally, there are plenty of great hotels in all price ranges, shapes, and sizes. We’ve selected the best hotels in Belgrade so you can make the most of your stay. Hotel Moskva is an iconic Art Nouveau hotel in downtown Belgrade favored by famous actors, musicians, and politicians.

We usually stay in the luxurious Metropol Palace, the best hotel in the city. Originally, the building was to be a congress center and the headquarters of the Communist Youth organization. However, Tito thought that the Capital of Yugoslavia needed a top-class grand hotel.

Built in the 1950s, Hotel Metropol soon became the best in Yugoslavia. Even if you don’t stay here, pop in to check the outstanding mural in the lobby. The coffee at the bar and the views of the park are splendid.

Hair saloon

Books on Street Art in Belgrade

As street art is becoming an integral part of Belgrade’s urban landscape, there is an ever-growing interest in it. At the moment, there is only one book dedicated exclusively to Belgrade’s street art scene: the Street Art Belgrade.

Photographer Aleksandar Djordjevic showcases Belgrade’s best graffiti and with more than 500 color photographs. The book gives a historical and stylistic perspective on the topic.

It also includes quotes from some famous local street artists like Artez, TKV, and Junk. Without a doubt, it is the book to have if you are into street art.

Graffiti in Bezanijska Kosa

6 Responses

  1. Aleix
    | Reply

    Gold post! Could you tell me exactly where is the location of George Orwell portrait?
    Thanks

    • happyfrogtravels
      | Reply

      Hi Aleix,
      George Orwell’s mural is in Bezistan, the half-covered passage connecting Terazije and Trg Nikole Pasica (behind the Mc Donalds).
      Good luck in finding it!

  2. Sam Leikind
    | Reply

    Is the Ratko Mladić mural still there? If it is still there? Where is it located? I know that there were protests with people defacing it and throwing eggs at it. So it’s quite possible that it is gone.

    • happyfrogtravels
      | Reply

      Hi Sam,
      Yes, the mural is gone. They put a white paint over it.

      • Sam Leikind
        | Reply

        Ok. Thanks. I was expecting it to be gone, but I was kinda hoping it would be there. Ratko Mladić isn’t a good person. There’s apparently a Ratko Mladić mural in Sremčica which is about a 30 minute drive from Belgrade.

        Is the Radovan Karadžić mural still on the corner of Jurija Gagarina and Dr Ivana Ribara in Novi Beograd?

        • happyfrogtravels
          | Reply

          I am unable to find any information about it. Apparently that mural was (or still is) on the tavern ‘Luda Kuca’, which displays paintings of both Ratko Mladic and Radovan Karadzic. Quite scary!

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