I visited Putrajaya for the first time in 2017. It was my first trip to Malaysia, and I had to include Putrajaya on my itinerary. After all, I had read so much about its stunning architecture and urban planning.
To be honest, I was a bit underwhelmed. Yes, the urban planning was interesting, with plenty of green areas, water, and open space. However, just like in the case of Brasília, it felt as though the ‘new capital of the future’ had been designed for cars rather than for people.
I came back last year to see if my opinion would change. I walked from the train station to the city center and didn’t encounter a single person. Though I enjoyed visiting some of its buildings, I still thought Putrajaya looked more like a giant open-air museum than a truly livable city.
Layout
Putrajaya was designed as a garden city. Malaysia was under British rule for more than 150 years, so it’s not surprising that they chose a model that originated in Britain in the late 19th century.
There is a central area with government facilities and residential suburbs separated by green belts. A large man-made lake penetrates the entire city, and there is even an island in the middle.
A central axis runs through the island, connecting the most important landmarks. The other streets take the form of avenues and motorways, with numerous large and small roundabouts.
The Good Side
What I loved most about Putrajaya was the lake and the green areas along its shores. The lake has an irregular shape, beautiful vegetation, and pleasant architecture decorating its banks.
The second thing I loved was the abundance of greenery. Green spaces are everywhere, even on the densely built island where the city center is located. Two giant parks, Putra Perdana Park and the Putrajaya Botanical Garden, are absolutely stunning.
The third thing I appreciated was how easy it was to visit the city. You can get there from Kuala Lumpur by taking a frequent metro or suburban train. There are sidewalks everywhere, and the city is clean and impeccably maintained.
The Bad Side
As we are talking about a garden city, there is very little activity along the streets. As a result, walking around can sometimes feel boring. From Putrajaya Sentral to the Central Axis, there is not a single kiosk where you can buy water or snacks.
Putrajaya’s architecture is not always that impressive either. Yes, some buildings are modern and relatively interesting, but others feel like uninspired interpretations of historical architecture.
Finally, the type of tourism they promote is not really my favorite. They prioritize large organized tours rather than individual visits. Some places can only be visited with a guide, and unfortunately, I was unlucky enough to get one who was quite unpleasant.
Central Axis
The core of Putrajaya’s master plan lies in its Central Axis, known as Putrajaya Boulevard or Persiaran Perdana. It is a 4.5 km (2.8 mile) boulevard that starts at the Prime Minister’s Office and ends at the International Convention Centre.
Pretty much all of Putrajaya’s landmarks are located along this boulevard. Most of them are clustered around two of the four large squares: Putra Square and Putrajaya Square.
The main landmarks include the Prime Minister’s Office, two mosques, the Federal Court, the Ministry of Local Government, and the Convention Centre.
Prime Minister’s Office – Perdana Putra
The Central Axis begins in the north at Putra Square. The enormous Perdana Putra, the office of Malaysia’s prime minister, crowns the small hill north of the square.
It is a symmetrical building with a central section and two lateral wings. Its design was inspired by both European and Asian architecture. The arches and columns with capitals are neoclassical, while the green domes are an obvious homage to Mughal architecture from India.
Malaysian influences can be found in the intricate details of the interior woodwork, though unfortunately access to the building is restricted.
Putra Mosque
This is Putrajaya’s main tourist attraction. In fact, most tour groups come here, make a brief visit, and then leave the city altogether. The Putra Mosque stands at Putra Square, directly across from the tourist office.
The design of the mosque was inspired by Persian, Arab, and Malay architecture. The main building has the shape of a square, with another adjacent square forming the entrance courtyard. This layout was clearly inspired by Ottoman mosques such as the Sultan Ahmed Mosque in Istanbul.
The mosque has a pyramidal composition, with each upper level slightly smaller than the one below. It is crowned by one large dome and eight smaller ones. It earned the nickname Pink Mosque thanks to the pink marble covering its exterior. The tall minaret has five sections symbolizing the Five Pillars of Islam.
Federal Court of Malaysia
Another building heavily influenced by Mughal architecture is the Federal Court of Malaysia. You will find it east of Putrajaya Square, in the center of the main boulevard.
Once again, we are talking about a symmetrical building with a central section and two lateral wings. Three giant domes crown the structure.
This building feels even less modern than Perdana Putra. The repetitive pointed horseshoe arches are very similar to those of the old Kuala Lumpur Railway Station.
Putrajaya Corporation Complex
Across the green lawn of Putrajaya Square stands the Putrajaya Corporation Complex, home to the administrative offices of the federal territory.
This building is clearly contemporary, with rectangular shape and sleek materials. However, because of the large arch in its center, it still feels monumental.
The building serves as a passage between the Federal Court and the Iron Mosque. Kiblat Walk, a lovely pedestrian street leading to the mosque, begins here.
Tuanku Mizan Zainal Abidin Mosque
Architecturally speaking, this is my favorite building in Putrajaya. I even waited for a while to go inside. Unfortunately, unlike at the Pink Mosque, visitors are not allowed to roam freely and instead must join a guided tour.
What is striking about the Tuanku Mizan Zainal Abidin Mosque is that 70 percent of its structure is made of steel. The exterior is wrapped in a lace-like mesh inspired by traditional Arabic patterns, which is how it earned the nickname Iron Mosque.
The building’s shape is quite simple: it is essentially a square topped with a large dome, with an adjacent covered entrance. There is no minaret, no interior pillars, and no carpet either, since the floor occasionally gets wet from the rain.
Putrajaya International Convention Centre
The Central Axis ends in the south at the Putrajaya International Convention Centre. Once again, a monumental building crowns a small hill.
Though I initially thought the building looked like a giant spaceship, it was actually modeled after the traditional Malay royal belt buckle, which has the shape of an eye.
The Convention Centre is also considered one of the most sustainable buildings in Malaysia. Its glass façade and circular design were intended to maximize natural light, while advanced cooling and ventilation systems help regulate the indoor climate.
How to Visit Putrajaya
You can visit Putrajaya independently by taking either a metro or a suburban train. Metro Line 12 does not stop in Kuala Lumpur’s historic center, but you can board it at Chan Sow Lin or Tun Razak Exchange.
If you prefer taking a suburban train, lines 6 and 7 stop at both Kuala Lumpur and KL Sentral stations. Even the fast train to KLIA stops at Putrajaya Sentral. Once there, you can either take a local bus, which is not very frequent, or walk for about an hour to reach the city center.
If all of this feels like too much effort, you can also join an organized tour. Some tours include transportation by minivan, sightseeing around Putrajaya, and even a boat cruise on the lake. Others allow you to explore the city on a Segway.
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