Kazakhstan was not the first and won’t be the last country to move its capital to a less developed and sparsely populated area. While walking amongst the city’s massive buildings, Brasilia came to mind. Supposedly Brazil’s government built the new capital to develop the central area. However, just like in Astana it seems that demonstrating power was at play too.
What can’t be denied is the huge environmental cost of such a move. The world is entering a phase of very limited resources and using vast amounts of concrete, glass, steel and wood to build this new mega city ‘just because’ may not be the smartest move. Plus, are all the buildings occupied? What about heating, cooling and upkeep costs?
Old Astana
The city wasn’t built entirely from scratch. Old Astana to the north of Ishim River is dominated by modest free-standing residential buildings, streets lined with trees and a couple of boulevards, typical of cities built during communist times.
We visited Old Astana in search of historical architecture from the pre-communist period. Our highlights included the Saken Seifullin Museum (the city’s oldest building), the Saints Constantine and Helen Orthodox Cathedral, and the elegant Trading House of merchant Matvey Kubrin.
New Astana
The modern capital, on the contrary, embraces monumentalism and showing off at every corner. Sprawled on mega boulevards, most buildings are impressive in size, with flashy materials, shapes and colors.
However, unlike in Skopje, there is a variety of styles. One group of buildings is thoroughly modern, with high-tech materials and simple forms. Another is essentially eclectic or postmodern, trying to imitate classical architecture. We prefer the first group, but in this post, we’ll show you both.
Central Axis
The Central Axis, along Nurzhol Boulevard, starts at the Presidential Palace, passes under the Baiterek Tower and goes all the way to Khan Shatyr Entertainment Center. It is entirely pedestrian, dotted with benches, interesting sculptures and fountains (quite opposite of Brasilia where it’s very hard to walk).
Although the boulevard is very wide (almost 100 meters or 328 feet), it feels somewhat intimate. This effect is achieved by separating pedestrian path from vehicular traffic with a layer of vegetation. Public spaces are only truly successful if people use them, and the Central Axis was quite lively when we visited.
The Cool Buildings
Baiterek Tower
If there is one building that people associate with Astana, it would have to be Baiterek Tower. Commissioned by the president of Kazakhstan and finished in 2002, it soon became the symbol of the new capital. We went up and loved the 360-degree views of Astana.
The shape of the tower was actually sketched by the president himself. The lower white structure represents a tree, while the golden sphere symbolizes an egg, inspired by a local folktale about the magical bird Samruk laying its egg in the Tree of Life.
Khan Shatyr Entertainment Center
From Baiterek, we walked west along the Central Axis to the Khan Shatyr Entertainment Center. This neo-futuristic structure provides a perfect ending to the colorful boulevard. Its conical shape and towering mast seem to guide pedestrians towards the sky.
Designed by renowned British architect Norman Foster, the building pays homage to the traditional Kazakh nomadic yurt. Fortunately, the concept was not interpreted literally, resulting in a truly striking architectural landmark.
Palace of Peace and Reconciliation
Although the pedestrian boulevard ends at the Presidential Palace in the east, the Central Axis extends across the river toward Independence Square. In the green area between the river and the square stands another spectacular work by Norman Foster.
The Palace of Peace and Reconciliation was built to host meetings of world religious leaders. Its pyramidal form symbolizes the peaceful coexistence of Kazakhstan’s diverse cultures and religions. The top of the pyramid features stained glass depicting 130 pigeons.
Kazakhstan Central Concert Hall
The last contemporary building we visited was slightly less convincing. The Kazakhstan Central Concert Hall is meant to resemble flower petals. While the blue back-painted glass panels are attractive, their rigid form doesn’t quite evoke the softness of petals.
That said, we appreciated how the building’s shape changes as you walk around it. It was also designed to protect the interior from Astana’s harsh winters. And of course, the main concert hall itself is impressive.
Eclectic Architecture
Ak Orda Presidential Palace
Also known as the Ak Orda Residence, this palace serves as the office of the president of Kazakhstan. Located at the eastern end of the Central Axis, it does not integrate as well into the urban landscape as Khan Shatyr.
Its architecture is not particularly original. The symmetrical façade, central round hall with pillars, and overall composition resemble the White House in Washington, D.C. As if that weren’t enough, a blue dome with a spire adds a Kazakh flavor to the building.
Hazrat Sultan Mosque
We wanted to visit a mosque, and the Hazrat Sultan Mosque appeared to be the top choice. What struck us most upon arrival was the contrast between the mosque and the surrounding modern landmarks (including the Palace of Peace and Reconciliation).
It is a classical mosque with a double-square layout, four minarets, and a central dome. While the decorations are impressive, there is nothing particularly innovative about its design. That said, its intricately painted dome is the largest in Kazakhstan.
Mäñgilik El Triumphal Arch
This is probably the most controversial building in Astana. The Mäñgilik El Triumphal Arch was built as a symbol of Kazakhstan’s statehood, unity, and continuity. But what does a triumphal arch have to do with Kazakhstan? Apparently, not much.
To make matters worse, the arch looks like a copy of many others. The vault features a coffered ceiling, there are large sculptures on both sides, and an architrave bearing an inscription. What remains unclear is why the structure is not part of the Central Axis. Perhaps it wasn’t widely appreciated, so it was placed away from the center.
Astana Opera
The last building in our post is another example of a missed opportunity. Every architect will tell you that architecture should reflect the time in which it was built. Although Astana’s Opera House was constructed between 2010 and 2013, it feels as if it were a hundred years older.
It is a typical neoclassical structure inspired by Greek temples. The main façade consists of eight tall columns (just like the Parthenon), a grand porch, and is topped by an architrave and a pediment. There is even a chariot with four horses on the roof. The interior is somewhat more interesting, with highlights such as a grand chandelier and frescoes depicting Charyn Canyon and Burabay National Park.
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