Sanliurfa (Urfa) is one of the greatest places in Southeastern Turkey. The city is home to the world’s oldest temple: Gobekli Tepe. Likewise, it is the birthplace of Abraham, the one of the Jewish, Christian, and Muslim faiths. Besides, one of the country’s most beautiful mosques is here. Sanliurfa is pretty popular in Turkey, but doesn’t suffer from mass tourism.
There are plenty of things to see and do in Sanliurfa. The old town and the souk are a testament to Ottoman times. There is an imposing castle with magnificent views. Sanliurfa is home to some of the country’s best museums. There is also an ancient necropolis, wonderful mosques, and aqueducts. Finally, biblical Harran is just a step away.
Is Sanliurfa Safe?
Most foreign tourists avoid the area because of safety concerns. Sanliurfa, or as locals call it, Urfa, is only 31 miles (50 km) from the border with Syria. Thus, the obvious question: is Sanliurfa safe? I’ve spent several days in the city and had no problem whatsoever. The conflict in Syria is almost over, and there haven’t been any problems in the area for some time now.
I am happy to report that Sanliurfa is a very safe place to visit. Small and beautifully restored houses pack its well-lit Old Town. The souk and the neighborhood east of it are pretty deserted at night. However, you can walk around Golbasi Park. Local people visit the park at night to admire this sacred site. The modern part of town is also safe.
Where to Stay in Sanliurfa
Sanliurfa has accommodation options for every taste and budget. Most hotels are in and around the old town, where most attractions are. Sanliurfa has authentic traditional hotels and new mock ones. It can be tricky to distinguish one from the other. So happy to be an architect and know the difference!
The best hotel in Sanliurfa, and one of the best in the south of Turkey, is the Palmyra Boutique Hotel. The carefully restored old palace has large rooms, a lovely courtyard, and a roof terrace with fantastic views. The hotel is perfectly located close to the Great Mosque. The best hotel in the new part of town is the Hilton Garden Inn. It’s a contemporary building with comfy rooms. It has an indoor pool, a hot tub, and a sauna.
How to Get to Sanliurfa
Most foreign tourists arrive in the city via the Sanliurfa GAP Airport. The airport is some 21 miles (34 km) north of the city. You can take a shuttle bus and be in the city in no time. It’s a small airport with domestic flights from Istanbul, Ankara, and Izmir. Sanliurfa doesn’t have a train station. Thus, the only other option is a bus.
Frequent buses connect Sanliurfa with Gaziantep, Adana, and the rest of Turkey. Several buses a day connect the city with Diyarbakir and Mardin in 2 to 3 hours. If you are coming from Midyat, you have to change buses in Mardin. Sanliurfa’s bus station is 2.5 miles (4 km) north of the old town, by the ring road.
The Best Things to Do in Sanliurfa
Explore the Magnificent Golbasi Park
Sanliurfa’s main sight is Golbasi Park, south of the old town. It’s a beautiful green area with historic mosques and lakes. Balikligol pond is between the Halil Al Rahman and Rizvaniye Mosques. The Mesopotamian King Nimrod threw Abraham into the fire there. The place turned into water, and the flames became goldfish.
South of Balikligol, you’ll spot the largest mosque in the area, Mevlid-i Halil Mosque. Its eastern courtyard hosts the cave where Prophet Abraham was born. Northeast, towards the souk, there is a fourth mosque, Hasan Padisah. If you have time, stop for tea in one of the teahouses around Ayn Zeliha Lake.
Enjoy the Best Views of Sanliurfa
Sanliurfa castle dominates the hill south of Golbasi Park. Though it’s not clear when the first castle was built on the spot, we do know that the current structure dates back to the 9th Century. Online information points out that the castle is as an open-air museum, but that’s not true. The castle is in bad shape and closed to visitors.
However, that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t climb the hill and walk around the castle. On the contrary: you’ll be rewarded with the best views of Sanliurfa. The main access is west of the Mevlid-i Halil Mosque. You’ll pass by a beautiful cave restaurant run by a lovely Syrian guy. There is another café at the top of the hill. Go down by the castle’s northwestern corner. You’ll spot several caves dug into the hill.
Mingle With the Locals in the Souk
Sanliurfa hosts one of Turkey’s most authentic Souks. Locals hang out and shop for groceries, spices, clothes, jewelry, and even furniture in the souk. The atmosphere is lively and the place colorful. If you search well enough, you’ll run into several old inns (Hani). The souk’s main entrance is next to the roundabout, Hasimiye Square.
Gumruk Han is Sanliurfa’s most impressive inn. You’ll find it close to the main entrance, west of the roundabout. The two-story 16th Century inn is the home of Sanliurfa’s most atmospheric café. Sit down, enjoy the vibe, and order a delicious menengiç kahvesi: Turkish coffee with roasted pistachios. The other historic buildings you must visit are the vaulted Bedesten, Velibey Hamami, and Barutcu Hani.
Roam the Streets of the Old Town
Sanliurfa has a gorgeous old town of narrow streets and brightly colored houses. Unlike other Turkish old towns, this one is clean and not that crowded. It’s the big area south of Harran Kapi Street, north of Sehit Nusret Street, west of Haleplibahce Street, and east of Akcakale Street. Start your walk at Hasimiye Square until you reach the small Elli Sekiz Square (58 Meydani).
The grand Reji Church, an old school, a Turkish hammam, and a mosque are on the plaza. At the eastern end of the Old Town, you’ll find the remains of the City Wall. The City Museum (Kent Muzesi) is there. Close to the Grand Mosque don’t miss the Mutfak Museum, a nice example of a traditional family house.
Learn History in the Sanliurfa Museum
Sanliurfa has a very long and rich history. Archeologists have uncovered the remains of human settlements that go back to 9000 BC. Macedonians (Greeks) founded the modern city of Urfa in the year 304 BC. At that time, it was called Edessa. During Roman times, it was a provincial capital. Later on, it became an important center for Christianity and Islam.
The Sanliurfa Museum has two buildings. The rectangular one homes the Sanliurfa Archeological Museum, while the round one is the Haleplibahce Mosaic Museum. Both museums are worth a visit, and you only have to pay for one ticket.
Visit Historic Mosques
If you think that the four mosques in Golbasi Park are the only ones worth visiting, you are wrong! Several historic mosques dot the city. The Great Mosque (Ulu Cami) in the middle of the old town dates back to 1170. It was built over the so-called Red Church. According to a legend, Jesus’ burial cloth was thrown into the mosque’s well.
Selahaddin Eyubi Mosque, southwest of the Grand Mosque, was a church for a long time. The Saint Johannes Prodromos Addai Church was built over the ancient St John the Baptist Church. It was converted into a mosque in 1993. The Firfirli Mosque, in the same street, was Sanliurfa’s Armenian Church. They used it as a place of worship from the 11th century till 1956.
Get to Know the Sanliurfa Necropolis
Sanliurfa has some of the oldest attractions in Turkey. We are talking about the 12-acre (4 hectares) archeological site on the western slope of the old town overlooking the Sanliurfa Museum. The impressive Kizilkoyun Necropolis has 133 rock tombs some 2000 years old when the city was called Edessa. There are also roman tombs, reliefs, and mosaics.
When I visited the necropolis, I was practically alone. There is no entrance fee, and you are only allowed to access a small reconstructed portion of the archeological site. Since locals use other caves, many have black walls from fire. Once done, climb the hill on the north side to enjoy epic views!
Walk by the Canal
The place that surprised me the most is Sanliurfa’s tiny Karakoyun Canal. Though the canal surrounds the city’s old town from the north and the east, only the northern part is actually visible (the eastern part is under the park). Three old bridges/aqueducts cross the canal. You can walk on two of them. There is also an impressive 19th-century inn, Millet Hani.
Millet Bridge is right next to the Clock Tower. The treaty with the French that ended the Battle of Urfa was signed on the bridge in 1922. Though the bridge is older, its construction date is not certain. The next one is the Justinian Dam and Aqueduct, supposedly from the 6th Century. Finally, there is another 19th-century bridge called Samsat (Hizmali).
Visit the World’s Oldest Temple
Though Gobekli Tepe lies 7 miles (12 kilometers) from Sanliurfa, many consider it the city’s main attraction. And for a good reason! Built in the 10th Millenium BC, it is the oldest known temple in the world. The agricultural (Neolithic) revolution took place here 12000 years ago! I was impressed by its circular structures made of giant stone pillars.
You can go to Gobekli Tepe with a public bus, private taxi, or organized tour. All vehicles stop at the giant parking lot next to the Visitors Center. From there, you can either take a shuttle bus or walk to the archeological site. Public buses connect downtown Sanliurfa with Gobekli Tepe several times a day. Make sure to find an updated timetable. The terminal is next to the Nevali Hotel.
Go on a Day Trip to Harran
It’s not easy to choose the best day trip from Sanliurfa, as there are quite a few great destinations. Halfeti Town, Ataturk Dam, Sumatar, Suayipsehri, and Karahan Tepe Archeological sites are just some of them. Nevertheless, I decided to spend a whole day in the beautiful town of Harran, close to the Syrian border.
Getting there wasn’t easy, but it was totally worth it. Harran is known all around the world for its ancient beehive houses (which can also be found in Syria). There is an old city wall, ruins of the world’s oldest university, a tumulus, and a castle. The whole place is incredibly authentic. Don’t leave Sanliurfa without paying a visit to Harran.
Leave a Reply