We went to Kratie province in Cambodia to see dolphins and ended up discovering two places that took our breath away. The country is one of our favorites in the world. During the past 20 years, we’ve visited several times. Thus, we knew we were heading somewhere beautiful.
Historic architecture lines the streets of Chhlong. The charming little town sits on the banks of the Mekong. We stayed in a luxurious hotel directly on the river. From there, we went to Koh Trong island. We will never forget the views, the beauty of the villages, and the warmth of the people.
Take note that the area is pretty safe. We walked everywhere at all times. Likewise, the road has improved a lot over the years. We took public transport and felt safe too. Our drivers never rushed. This is a pampered adventure. Kratie is off the beaten track, but offers fabulous hotels and delicious food.
Chhlong Village
We believe Chhlong represents the best of Kratie and Cambodia. Fortunately, most foreign tourists ignore the place. Thus, it has retained its atmospheric vibe and authenticity. To us, this is Kratie biggest draw. Visiting Chhlong is like traveling in time. You get to experience Cambodia’s history, present, and future.
Lush nature surrounds Chhlong. The town extends along the Mekong River. Koh Tasuy is the island in front. The river here is not that deep. Thus the gorgeous sand banks. Rice fields and forests dot the area. As the sun moves, everything changes color throughout the day. You can spend hours just enjoying the views.
Chhlong is also an architect’s dream. The town has a couple of Buddhist temples with elaborate roofs and splendid gardens. Some of the grandest colonial architecture in the country is here too. To our delight, some buildings have been refurbished and some have not. Finally, most people live in beautiful wooden houses.
Getting to Chhlong
It’s very easy to go from Phnom Pehn to Chhlong. The town is just 110 miles (180 km) from the capital. However, some sections of the road are in good shape, and some are not. Driving there should take you three hours. If you want to hire a private taxi there, ask your hotel.
We took a shared van from the night market in central Phnom Penh and got to Chhlong in three and a half hours. Since we travel so much, we try to reduce our environmental footprint by taking as many public buses as possible. It wasn’t the most comfortable ride ever, but we met locals!
Siem Reap is 180 miles (290 km) away. Driving there should take 6 hours. We didn’t want to rush. Therefore, we took a 3-hour van to Kampong Cham and spent the night. Then, a 2-hour van to Kampong Thom and spent the night. Finally, we took a 3-hour van to Siam Reap.
Things to Do in Chhlong
Spend the Night in Le Relais de Chhlong
Le Relais de Chhlong is by far the best hotel in Kratie. In fact, it is one of the main reasons why you should visit. The property from 1916 used to be the residence of a rich Chinese-Khmer family. From the 1940s on, it was the residence of the French Governor. It suffered tremendously for decades.
Tall rubber trees and beautiful plants populate the massive garden. There’s even a small teak plantation. We spent hours in the pool, under banana and palm trees, mesmerized by the butterflies. All rooms are big and exquisitely decorated. Ours faced the river. We loved reading and having wine on the balcony.
The restaurant serves top-quality food, cocktails, and coffee. The service is as grand and elegant as the property! It was a pleasure to chill in the elegant saloon and talk to the manager. You have to spend a couple of nights here to experience the best of Cambodia with a fabulous French touch.
Visit the Chhlong Marketplace
The Chhlong Marketplace is like no other market in the world. We simply loved it! The market is east of the hotel. You can walk or bike there. You will see beautiful Cambodian wooden houses on the way to the center of town. The market is on the street, next to old colonial buildings.
Some early 20th century buildings are in good shape, but most not. That’s exactly what we like. Local people visit to shop and socialize. We strolled around the area admiring the buildings and learning about local life. Don’t worry if you get hungry or thirsty. There are several places to grab a bite and chill.
This is not a market for tourists or a Disney park. Granted, it would look fancier fully refurbished. It wouldn’t look real either. Not only that, but franchises and western shops would soon open, displacing the local sellers. Better like this: some colonial charm by and for Cambodians.
Bike Along the Village
The village extends along the Mekong River, the lifeline of Kratie. You can walk or bike next to the river for hours. Since the terrain is flat, it’s pretty easy. However, it can be very hot, so don’t forget to wear a hat and carry a recycled bottle of water.
Le Relais de Chhlong has super comfortable bikes. Grab one and explore the village and the surrounding area. Begin your ride next to the river. Bike to the east to reach the center. Continue to Chan Pagoda and Chu Chi Temple. You can cross a small tributary and continue through rice fields.
Go to the west to see a couple of temples and an urban forest. The Chhlong Passing Port is 10 minutes from the hotel. You can hop on a boat and cross to the island in front. Before judging Kratie for the trash next to the river, remember which countries produce the most waste. Yes, it’s us.
Koh Trong Island
Koh Trong Island is in front of Kratie Town, 23 miles (38 km) north of Chhlong. Kratie Town lies on the banks of the Mekong River. The town is pretty interesting. It’s got a couple of historic buildings near the market. The grandest is the Kratie Town Hall from 1915.
Koh Trong is one of the nicest places we’ve visited in Cambodia. The island is full of incredible fruit and bamboo trees. People live in beautiful wooden houses on stilts. There are no cars! Just some motorbikes and a couple of tuk-tuks. Therefore, the air is fresh, and you can hear the sound of the forest.
Fruit plantations and rice fields cover the entire island. The island is flat, with golden sand banks that change color throughout the day. There’s a small floating village to the south. There are no fancy shops or franchises. Everything is authentic and original. All you have to do is meet lovely people and relax by the river.
Getting to Koh Trong
We took a tuk-tuk from Chhlong to Kratie town. Our Le Relais hotel organized everything. If you need a bigger car, ask the hotel. We got picked up on time and were there in less than 30 minutes. It’s an interesting journey next to the river. You get to see a couple of pagodas and mosques.
Ask your driver to drop you at the Jasmine restaurant, next to the river. Boats to the island leave approximately every hour. The boat crosses the river in a couple of minutes. Though not on an exact schedule, the Mekong river boat operates all day long. Ask when the next one is leaving.
You will see a couple of motorbikes and tuk-tuks on the island waiting for passengers. They will take you to your hotel or homestay in no time. Once in your hotel, be sure to ask about transport back. Our hotel got us a shared van in Kratie that took us to Kampong Cham.
Things to Do in Koh Trong
Spend the Night in a House on Stilts
The best hotel on the island is the Soriyabori Villas Kratie Resort. The hotel is to the north, next to the river. It’s a big property with beautiful wooden houses. The units are big and come with a seating area to relax. It’s got a fantastic pool and an onsite restaurant.
The only other guesthouse you can book online is Arun Mekong. It’s near Soriyabori Villas. They offer basic rooms with private bathrooms and a mosquito net. We liked their small bar with hammocks next to the river. As strange as it sounds, fancy hotels in Cambodia don’t have comfortable traditional hammocks.
You can also stay with local people! Ask once on the island. Many locals rent their traditional wooden houses. Though maybe not as comfortable as a hotel, you get a real experience. Staying with Cambodians is a magical experience. Your homestay hosts will make sure you have a great time.
Tour the Island on a Motorbike
Of all the things to do in Kratie, touring the Koh Trong island on a motorbike is a must. Take note that in theory, you could also use a bicycle. However, it rains a lot so maybe you will have to hire a motorbike. We did and had a blast.
A simple and narrow road goes all around the island. Our drivers took us carefully everywhere. We stopped several times to see the sandbanks. You won’t believe how soft the sand is! Besides, the banks change throughout the day, providing a fantastic show. Don’t rush, and ask your driver to take you to the nicest spots.
If it starts raining heavily, don’t worry. All you have to do is chill in a hammock at any local bar or shop. Once the rain stops, continue your journey. We advise you to take proper shoes. It can be slippery, and you will want to walk on the sand. Bring bug repellent too! It can be hard to find on the island.
Visit the Temples of Koh Trong
Granted, the temples of Koh Trong may not be as incredible as the ones in Siem Reap, but they are the real thing. Ask your motorbike driver to take you to all of them. The nicest is to the north of the island, next to Soriyabori Villas.
Kbal Koh Pagoda is next to rice fields, in the middle of a gorgeous garden with tall trees. It’s a typical Cambodian temple with elaborate roofs. However, the wooden part of the temple is beautiful. Take your shoes off and go up. The atmosphere is authentic and peaceful.
The Vietnamese temple is on the southern tip of the island. You will see Chinese and Buddhist statues, including one of Quan Yin. There’s a small floating village next to the temple. You can go down to the sand banks too. Go in the afternoon to enjoy a killer sunset.
River Dolphins in Kratie: Should you Visit?
Most tourists visit the area to see the dolphins in Kratie. That was one of the reasons why we went. However, we finally decided not to. Please, don’t get us wrong. We are here to provide information, not to judge or preach. We are sure you’ll do what’s best for you.
We researched the issue and thought the best we could do for the dolphins was to leave them alone. Over the past decades the local dolphin population has dwindled considerably. It’s believed that less than 80 live in the river today due to pollution, global warming, and poaching
However, we know that sustainable tourism is the only way to save them. Local people should be able to make a living taking tourists to see them. We could use less polluting and safer boats. Once in Kratie, try to get one of the more responsible tours.
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