Cambodia is famous worldwide for its ancient temples, including well-known ones like Angkor Wat, Preah Vihear, and Koh Ker. However, these are not the only ones waiting to be discovered. Last year, Eitan and I had the pleasure of visiting the off-the-beaten-path Nokor Bachey Pagoda.
Wat Nokor Bachey is a fascinating pagoda located on the outskirts of Kampong Cham. It seamlessly blends two different architectural styles from distinct historical periods: a modern Theravada Buddhist pagoda coexists within an 11th-century Mahayana Buddhist shrine.
This unique temple is shrouded in mystery. Archaeologists have been unable to determine its exact age, with estimates ranging from the 10th to the 12th Centuries. It remains unclear whether the Khmer emperor Jayavarman VII ruled from here. What is certain, however, is that you should absolutely visit this captivating place before it becomes a tourist mecca.
Nokor Bachey Pagoda
Brief History
It is believed that the temple’s foundations date back to the reign of King Suryavarman II, who also built Angkor Wat. However, it was finished during the reign of Jayavarman VII, Cambodia’s first Buddhist monarch. We are talking about the same king who built Bayon, Ta Prohm, and Preah Khan.
Several legends and stories explain the temple’s origin. The most famous one talks about a king’s son who was sent to China when he was four years old. In his 30s, the son decided to return to Cambodia, where he murdered the king and married the king’s wife.
Only later did he realize that he had married his own mother. Because of this, the queen thought he needed to do something to improve his karma. Thus, she ordered him to build two identical stupas inside the temple, where their remains were to be stored after their death.
Temple Architecture
The temple, constructed with black sandstone and laterite, features a rectangular enclosure within another rectangular enclosure, with the central temple taking the form of a cross. A double wall surrounds the entire structure. The inner wall measures 430 x 330 feet (130 m x 100 m), while the outer wall spans 1400 x 1200 feet (420 m x 370 m).
To the east of the central temple is the prayer hall (Vihara), an addition made between the 12th and 16th Centuries. A stone stele inside the prayer hall commemorates these renovations, and behind it are four seated Buddha statues.
Notable elements within the temple enclosure include the naga balustrade at the eastern entrance and two libraries. The old prayer hall and the new pagoda are situated southeast of the main enclosure. The interior of the old prayer hall resembles that of the main temple.
How to Visit the Temple
The best way to visit the temples is with a tuk-tuk. We hired one in front of our hotel and had a fantastic time. Our driver knew exactly where to take us. He drove with care, made sure we were comfortable, and stopped for pictures and drinks whenever we wanted. He waited for us in the temple, picked us up, and took us back to the city center.
We spent a lot of time around the area, walking, and enjoying the beautiful temples. We first visited the modern temple north of the main enclosure and the cemetery east of it. The place was full of monks happy to chat.
To enter the ancient temple, you have to pay the entrance fee of 2 USD. Please note that the ticket includes a visit to the nearby Phnom Pros and Phnom Srei temples. Take your time and explore the temple. There are numerous statues and bas reliefs in very good condition. The whole place is quite authentic.
How to Get to Nokor Bachey Temple
You Need to Get to Kampong Cham
Kampong Cham is the capital and the largest city in Kampong Cham Province in Central Cambodia. It is located some 77 miles (124 km) northeast of Cambodia’s capital, Phnom Penh. It is a small city on the banks of the mighty Mekong River. A modern vehicular bridge, known as Kizuna Bridge, connects the city with the nearby Tbong Kmoum Province.
Most minibuses connecting Phnom Penh and Kratie pass through Kampong Cham, a popular route for foreign tourists heading to Kratie to see the famous Mekong dolphin. Opting not to disturb the local wildlife, we instead spent time in the beautiful village of Chhlong and the lush green island of Koh Trong.
Several daily minibuses also connect Kampong Cham with Siem Reap, with stops in Kampong Thom, where you can explore the wonderful temples of Sambor Prei Kuk. Another convenient option is to find fellow travelers heading the same way and share a private taxi. Hiring one exclusively for yourself is also an option.
How to Reach the Temple
As mentioned earlier, we highly recommend visiting Wat Nokor Bachey Pagoda with a tuk-tuk. There are many available in central Kampong Cham, and they are quite affordable, usually costing no more than 20 USD.
If you prefer to visit the temple independently, there are several options. The temple is approximately 1.5 miles (2.5 km) northwest of the city center, and you can reach it on foot. Simply head to the main road no. 7 and follow it northwest until you reach the big roundabout, where you should turn left. It’s about a 45-minute walk.
Another option is to hire a car, motorbike, or bicycle. Once again, start by getting to road no. 7 and follow it northwest. To park your car or motorbike, continue past the roundabout and turn left after passing the Kompong Siem District Hall. Don’t forget to explore the Phnom Pros and Phnom Srei temples afterward for a complete experience.
Kampong Cham City
Where to Stay in Kampong Cham
Kampong Cham is not a major tourist destination, and as a result, there are only a handful of hotels inside and around the city. Depending on the purpose of your visit, we have two different suggestions.
The Lbn Asian Hotel, the only hotel in downtown Kampong Cham, is a fantastic choice if you plan to spend a day in the city. This wonderful modern hotel offers comfortable, spacious rooms with balconies. We particularly enjoyed the view from our room overlooking the Mekong.
For those seeking a closer connection to nature, we recommend the Hanchey Bamboo Resort. Located 12 miles (20 km) north of the city, it serves as an oasis of peace and tranquility. You´ll love the spacious rooms, large swimming pool, and breathtaking views over the Mekong.
Things to Do in Kampong Cham
We loved Kampong Cham, even though there aren’t many things to do there. The city is quite authentic, with very few tourists around. One of our favorite activities in every place we visit is to explore the local market, and Kampong Cham’s is particularly beautiful. The Art Deco structure resembles Phnom Penh’s central market.
Another things we loved about Kampong Cham was strolling around its streets. The city center features several old French colonial houses, colorful shops, and restaurants. A walk along the riverbank is a must!
For those interested in historic sites, Kampong Cham has another gem – the iconic French Lighthouse, actually a watchtower. Built in the 1920s by the French to oversee nearby rubber plantations, it´s across the river, by the bridge.
Where to Eat and Drink
In Kampong Cham, you’ll find restaurants catering to all tastes and budgets. We had dinner on the hotel’s rooftop, where the food was quite decent. It seems to be a popular spot for young and hip locals to have fun, and the views from the top alone are worth the visit.
For food enthusiasts, we highly recommend The Smile Restaurant, just a few steps away from our hotel. We enjoyed a sublime beef loc lac and a delightful mango smoothie. Run by an NGO, the restaurant directs all its profits towards local initiatives.
Other excellent places to eat and drink are along the riverfront. The Lazy Mekong Daze is a fantastic spot for pizza and beer, while the Taurus (Sky) Bar offers a great setting to enjoy a drink with a view of the river.
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